Poggio San Polo Brunello di Montalcino 2019

Bright with raspberry, strawberry, boysenberry and white pepper flavors, this red also shows notes of peony and a hint of wild herbs, with tremendous balance and a stony aftertaste, Graceful, charming and ready to enjoy, yet there's no rush. Drink now through 2040. 2,750 cases made, 1,100 cases imported.

The cherries come through on the nose, as does the wood. Some Spanish cedar, too. Medium body. Solid core of fruit and fine tannins at the end. From organically grown grapes. Comes across balanced at this stage, but will be even better in three or so years. Try after 2026.

The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino excites the senses with an inviting bouquet that mixes vivid black cherries with spiced oranges, sweet roses and cedar. It's silky-smooth yet energetic with a wave of mineral-tinged red berry fruits that slowly saturate. A coating of fine tannins coats the palate as this finishes classically structured, spicy and long, promising many years of positive development.

Owned by Marilisa Allegrini since 2007, San Polo is Tuscany’s first winery to be awarded CasaClima certification for its energy efficiency. From a blend of parcels with various exposures – from southeast through to southwest – averaging 450 metres above sea level. Mature notes of tobacco and nutmeg gain a fragrant lift from juniper and pink peppercorn. The mid-weight palate is accented with sweet herbs. While it could do with a touch more vibrancy, it is solidly encased with firm gravelly tannins. Time should smooth out the edges.

Red/garnet-colored, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino is expressive on opening with notes of raspberry coulis, menthol, pressed roses, and toasted oak. Medium-bodied, it has good concentration and a tangy lift, with an iron-rich mineral tone and ripe tannins. It falls off a bit earlier than I was expecting or hoping to see, but it has a good deal of charm for near-term drinking.

The organic San Polo 2019 Brunello di Montalcino has a savory bouquet with vintage leather, black olive, tilled soil and barbecue smoke. The mouthfeel carries extra heft and big fruit weight, which only serves to underline the oak. There is a gamey quality with fennel-infused salami or cured bresaola. I would suggest a pairing dish of wild boar or stewed rabbit. The tannins are dusty but not intrusive. In all, there is something just a bit off or disjointed on the bouquet of this wine. Production is 45,000 bottles.