Domaine Jacques Frederic Mugnier Musigny 2016

Mugnier's 2016 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is just being released, but readers should take its eight years of cellaring at the domaine as a statement of intent rather than a sign to start pulling corks on reception, as the wine is still very far from maturity. Unwinding in the glass with scents of dark berries, orange rind, exotic spices and a deft framing of new oak, it's full-bodied, deep and layered, with a hugely concentrated core of fruit that reflects the year's low yields, lively acids and supple but abundant structuring tannins, it concludes with a long, palate-staining finish.

Bright, dark red. Musky red berries, cherry, spices and earth on the nose. Savory on entry, then intense, rich and thick in the middle palate; the silkiest of these young 2016s if still showing a touch of reduction. Finishes with sweet soil tones and excellent subtle persistence. Still, I don't find the high notes of the 2015 version.