Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Musigny Vieilles Vignes 2016

Other vintages

The 2016 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru was damaged 70% by the frost: a significant proportion of the entire Grand Cru given that Comte de Vogüé owns most of it. Matured in 30% new oak, it has a broody bouquet that is not as immediate as the Bonnes Mares at the moment, in fact, you would think there is a small amount of stem addition even though there is nary a stem. The word that springs to mind nosing this Musigny is "rocky," maybe basalt? The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin. There is plenty of blackberry and wild strawberry fruit infused with minerals that segue into a strict and correct finish that leaves you with a persistent stony aftertaste. It is more of a cerebral than sensual Musigny, one that will require eight to ten years in bottle. I was not quite captured by this Musigny but I suspect that it will show better once in bottle.

While highly complex this is cool to the point of only grudgingly revealing a strikingly layered combination of violets, rose petals, sandalwood, anise, clove, plum and dark currant scents. This is a big and overtly muscular wine with broad-shouldered and admirably concentrated flavors yet for all of the impressive size, weight and volume, the massively long finish is serene, even Zen-like. 2014 is a relatively seductive and forward vintage for this storied wine, and I appreciate that calling a wine "forward" when it will likely need 20 years to fully mature is a relative concept!