Schloss Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner Tradition 2013

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The Kamptal region of Austria has been producing wine since at least 1171 by the Monks of Zwettl. Since 1996, the original vineyard site of these monks has been managed by Eva and Michael Moosbrugger. In 2006 'Michi' Moosbrugger was awarded as ‘Winemaker of the Year’ by the Austrian magazine Falstaff, and in 2009 and 2010 the estate was acknowledged as ‘One of the Top 100 Wineries of the Year’ by Wine & Spirits Magazine. Schloss Gobelsburg maintains multiple vineyards in the Kamptal, including the mineral-rich, crystalline slopes of the Gaisberg and Heiligenstein planted to Riesling, and the deep loess soils of Renner, Grub, and Lamm planted to Grüner Veltliner. The winery continues to utilize organic winegrowing and has benefited from the fact that the monks of Zwettl Monastery began these practices as early as 1958.
 

Moosbrugger is convinced that the future Gobelsburg lies in individuality and character, and does so by reducing the use of technology and machines. He developed the ‘Dynamic Cellar Concept’ for Gobelsburg in which wines are no longer pumped from one location to the other, but transported in ‘barrels on wheels’ from one section of the cellar to the other for more gentle handling. A hallmark of the estate are the ‘Tradition’ bottlings of Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. Having read the meticulous notations of the Cistercians at the estate over the past 150 years, Michi pays homage in his role as cellar master, responsible for the ‘education’ of his ‘pupils’ –wine- while leading them through elevage; as opposed to acting as ‘winemaker,’ whose decisions in present day Austria are generally to preserve aromatics and fruit through extremely reductive methods. Bottom line: these are amazing wines!!!

Category White Wine
Varietal
Country Austria
Region Niederösterreich
Appellation Kamptal
Brand Schloss Gobelsburg
Alcohol/vol 13%
  • agv98

VinousThis latest---indeed, greatest--in Michael Moosbrugger's memorable ongoing series of explorations into how and why his mid-20th century predecessors and their forebears "raised" wine, was to have been bottled this summer for autumn release... Faintly yeasty and alkaline notes in the nose accompany intimations of the rich, earthy, umami-laden foundation of subtly caramelized root vegetables that the palate delivers, studded with peppercorns and drizzled with fragrant floral honey. Satiny in texture, searchingly expansive, yet buoyant and preserving a vibrant core of sheer refreshment, this enters a finishing realm of oyster liquor-like salinity, oceanic mineral and seaweedy depth, that will milk your salivary glands while leaving your mouth agape. (Any embarrassment will be well worth it.) 97-98