Chateau Pichon Baron Pauillac 2010

Administrator Christian Seeley thinks the 2010 is the greatest Pichon Longueville Baron he has ever made, equaling some of the estate's colossal wines from vintages such as 1989 and 1990. It was certainly showing well when I stopped by the chateau in January. Opaque purple, with loads of charcoal, licorice, incense and some exotic Asian spices along with abundant cassis liqueur, blackberry and hints of roasted coffee and spring flowers, it is full-bodied and opulent, with relatively high tannins, but they have sweetened up considerably and seem less aggressive than they did from barrel. The oak is clearly pushed to the background by the wine's wealth of fruit, glycerin and full-bodied texture. This sensational Pichon Longueville Baron needs 5-6 years of cellaring, and should keep 30+ years.

This is quintessential Pauillac, a great wine with its Cabernet proudly at the fore. It ranks with the 2009 and, with its tannins, is sure to age longer than that vintage. Solidly structured, powerful and dense, with fruit promised for the future, it succeeds with its weight and great concentration.

The 2010 Pichon-Baron has a surly, backward and uncompromising bouquet of layers of black fruit, smoke and melted tar. It feels curmudgeonly compared to the 2009, which one expects, yet I wonder if it will always remain that way. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin, great depth, huge grip in the mouth and intense mineralité toward the persistent finish. But this might be a rare case where the finesse of the 2009 shades the 2010. It will need a decade in the bottle and maybe then I will be proven wrong. Tasted at the Pichon-Baron vertical at the château. Drink 2020 - 2055

Solidly built, with a roasted edge to the steeped fig, blackberry and black currant flavors, quickly followed by brambly tannins and notes of bay leaf and espresso. Stays dark and tarry through the finish, with superb drive and verve. Best from 2017 through 2030.

A dense and layered wine with lots of ripe and sweet fruit. Loads of currants, plums and tar. This is concentrated and almost jammy with velvety tannins. Powerful. Chewy. Try in 2020.