Domaine Meo-Camuzet Corton Clos Rognet 2005

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bh
90-93
wa
91-92

Méo-Camuzet is one of the most celebrated domaines of the Côte d'Or, located in the heart of prestigious Vosne-Romanée. The domaine boasts 14 hectares of land in some of the most spectacular appellations and crus of Burgundy. Founder Étienne Camuzet was not only a passionate vigneron, but a full-time politician, and spent most of his time in Paris, representing the Côte d'Or. By the time his daughter had inherited the estate, she found herself with no successors, so the estate was passed down to her closest relative, Jean Méo. Jean was also deeply involved in national politics-he served as a member of Charles DeGaulle's cabinet. Consequently, he, too, had to direct the domaine from afar.

In the early 1980s, as many of the métayeurs were starting to retire, it became clear that the domaine needed a new direction. Jean's son, Jean-Nicolas had also spent most of his life in Paris, but had an enormous passion for winegrowing. By 1985, it was his turn to take the helm. In lieu of continuing to rent out their highly-pedigreed vineyards, he made the bold decision to slowly start reclaiming the land for the domaine's own bottlings. He called upon the resident expert, one of Burgundy's greatest winemakers of all time, Henri Jayer, for guidance. Henri had spent over forty years farming parcels from Méo-Camuzet under his own label. For three years, he mentored Jean-Nicolas during the transition and finally decided to retire in 1988. Jean-Nicolas has since directed the winemaking in the cellar and managed sales. He has put the vineyards in the capable hands of Christian Faurois, son of one of domaine's métayeurs, who has dedicated himself to these vineyards since 1973. 

We have visited this illustrious estate and tasted wine with Jean-Nicolas. He is extremely serious and detail-oriented with an underlying passion for the vines and the wines which he ultimately produces. Today Domaine Méo-Camuzet bottles four astounding grands crus (Richebourg, Clos de Vougeot, Corton Clos Rognet, and Échezeaux, with two more Cortons soon on the way), ten premier crus (from the communes of Vosne-Romanée, Nuits-St-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny, and Fixin), several village wines including this Vosne-Romanee, one Bourgogne Rouge, and only one white. Jean-Nicolas aims for balance and purity of fruit, which he accomplishes with terrific success. Though delicate and fine, even in their youth, the paradoxical concentration and intensity of these wines make them ideal for long aging.

This glorious wine is made from a .45 ha parcel of 70-year-old vines in the Grand Cru of Corton. Perhaps the prettiest vineyard of the estate, Clos Rognet is oriented directly east, on the magic hill of Corton, in the northern part of the appellation in Ladoix-Serrigny. Clos Rognet is still surrounded by its old walls, whose charm is enhanced by the small size of the vineyard plot: just over one acre. The soil is of average depth, and fairly light in structure. The vines are in perfect harmony with the stones in the soils. They were planted in the 20's with a selection which matures very early and which produces small cylindrical grapes, which could illustrate the chapter on Pinot fin in a viticultural textbook. In the cellars of Meo-Camuzet, Corton represents silkiness, smoothness and authority. Its vines produce a robust wine with astonishing aging capacity. The grapes yielded are ripe and dense, offering sweet aromas, generous depth and a well-rounded texture; its structure is sometimes pronounced on the finish.

Category Red Wine
Varietal
Country France
Region Burgundy
Appellation Cote de Beaune
Brand Domaine Meo-Camuzet
  • bh90-93

BurghoundA very fresh nose that is completely different with a subtle hint of menthol combining with game, smoke and more subtle spice notes on the predominantly red fruit aromas that merge into rich, detailed and strikingly powerful broad-scaled flavors dripping with extract that saturates the palate on the wonderfully intense finish.

Allen Meadows
  • wa91-92

Wine AdvocateThe Meo 2005 Corton Rognets delivers yet more fresh black fruits and minerals in the nose. Tart berry skin and chalky undertones compliment a generous fresh fruit juiciness on the palate. Refined tannins and admirable length of fruit and stone complete the picture of an unusually bright and lithe Corton that still, I suspect, needs 8-10 years in the cellar.

David Schildknecht, April 2007

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