Pierre Paillard Verzenay Grand Cru Veilles Vignes Extra Brut 2019

Among the most compelling wines in Paillard's cellar this year, the 2019 Verzenay Grand Cru is sourced from two lieux-dits in north-facing slopes—vineyards that, as Antoine Paillard notes, are the last they harvest. Structured yet focused, it unites the cool personality of its exposition with the maturity of the vintage, offering up notes of pear, orange zest and dried apricot, mingling with sweet citrus fruit. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and concentrated, laden with tangy acidity and with bitter structuring phenolics that assert themselves on the long, saline finish. Compared to Bouzy's typically more expansive bottlings, this is notably more controlled. It was disgorged in December 2023 with a dosage of two grams per liter.

The 2019 Extra Brut Verzenay Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes Pinot Noir is open-knit and caressing. Dried pear, ginger, mint, chamomile, lemon confit and light oak inflections grace the palate. This is an especially soft style for Verzenay. I would prefer to see a bit more Verzenay energy and vintage 2019 depth, but this is still an attractive Champagne. Dosage is 2 grams per liter. Disgorged: December 2023.