Domaine Louis Michel & Fils Chablis Forets Premier Cru 2023

A vague whiff of the exotic can be found on the nose of quinine, orange peel, white peach and lemongrass. The middle weight flavors possess a similar seductive and caressing texture to those of the Montmains with just a bit more vibrancy on the clean and slightly drier finish that flashes just a touch of youthful austerity. 88-91

The 2023 Chablis Forets ler Cru has some reduction on the nose, touches of lemongrass and ginger infusing the citrus fruit. The palate has a slightly honeyed entry, more resinous in style, fine acidity with a finish that just needs a little more persistence. Give it a year after bottling. 88-90

Michel's 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Forêts, informed by about 80 centimeters of clay topsoil above the limestone bedrock, is already expressive, delivering notes of tangerine zest, dried white flowers and spices. Medium to full-bodied, textural and enveloping, it's vibrant and lively, with more depth and persistence than Montmain, even if it's not as minerally this year as one might desire.