Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2023

Very few vintages of this legendary Tuscan wine deliver the immediate joy, richness and complexity found in the Tenuta San Guido 2023 Bolgheri Sassicaia. Tasted both before and after its January 2026 bottling, this is a wine that feels uncannily open and generous in its youth, a rare trait for Sassicaia, which is famously inscrutable at this stage. The 2023 vintage was marked by a cold winter and above-average rainfall followed by a severe outbreak of downy mildew that damaged leaves, forcing brutal fruit selection and resulting in a 20% reduction in yields. Only the estates willing to make these sacrifices succeeded, and the best wines rank among the most compelling and elusive of recent years. The blend includes 13% to 14% Cabernet Franc alongside Cabernet Sauvignon, with the Franc playing a decisive phenolic role that reinforces elegance, linearity and brightness. Aromas unfold with wild sage, rosemary and dark fruit before moving into crushed stone minerality, rose petal and a finely spiced spectrum of pink peppercorn, nutmeg, anise, cardamom, bergamot and blood orange, joined by a delicate note of mentuccia romana, sweeter and gentler than classic mint. The palate shows beautiful softness framed by chalky tannins and mineral tension. Its acidity shines bright and guarantees long cellar aging potential. The wine remains fluid and flexible in the glass as different facets of the bouquet emerge. Like the legendary 1985, 2023 was a difficult and stressful vintage shaped by a cold winter, yet it stands as proof that great pressure can indeed give birth to diamonds.

Very cool, complex and pretty aromas of black currants, fresh herbs such as sage and rosemary, with lavender and violet undertones. Medium- to full-bodied with crunchy and layered fruit delivering currant, plum, spice, cedar and bark flavors as well as polished and velvety tannins. A very clear and distinctive Sassicaia with true character of the estate. Drink in two or three years and beyond.

The 2023 Sassicaia was tasted as an early preview, as it was bottled in January. In the glass, it pours a youthful, jeweled ruby hue and is immediately expressive, with seductive layered aromatics of redcurrant, plum, sweet sage, orange peel, and suede, alongside subtle notes of graphite and fresh herbs. Full-bodied yet remarkably lifted, it moves across the palate with precision and energy, supported by refined tannins and a vibrant spine of acidity. There is a saline, coastal freshness that adds tension and length, carrying through a long, persistent finish. The wine shows excellent balance between ripeness and structure, with a polished texture and a clear sense of place with umami undertones. Already compelling, it has the framework to evolve gracefully over the coming decades. It’s composed of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon and 13% Cabernet Franc and was aged for 24 months in 40% new French oak.

The 2023 Sassicaia is elegant and supremely polished. Dark, ample and mysterious, the 2023 has much to offer once it opens up a bit. Blackberry, gravel, incense and new leather convey tons of somber intensity. Cabernet Sauvignon speaks quite loudly in the 2023, despite the wine's midweight structure. Tenuta San Guido’s 2023 Sassicaia is one of the wines of the vintage, an accomplishment that is even more impressive given the challenges of the growing season. Early April frost lowered yields in Merlot and Cabernet Franc by about 20%. Rain during flowering and fruit set resulted in loose bunches, perhaps not ideal for production but decidedly positive for air circulation, essential in a year with elevated disease pressure. The 2023 saw as much as 20-25 days on the skins, with the oldest parcels getting the longest vatting times. Malolactic fermentations were intentionally delayed; about 60% of the lots were done in barrel. The 2023 spent five months in used barriques, then 21 months in a combination of 44% new, 40% once-used and 16% twice-used barrels. This is an impressive showing. I can't wait to see how the 2023 ages.