Domaine de Montille Saint-Aubin En Remilly 1er Cru 2021

Domaine de Montille is among Burgundy's most iconic estates, with a long and fabled history dating back to 1730’s. While the de Montille name is certainly synonymous with the village of Volnay where the family house still sits, the original historic estate consisted of 25 hectares spread throughout the Côte d’Or, including parcels in the famed Grand Crus of Musigny and Bonnes Mares. Unfortunately, the family had to sell off many of these parcels around the phylloxera crisis in order to survive. In fact, by the time Hubert de Montille took over in 1947, the estate was down to a mere 2.5 HA, mostly in Volnay and some in Pommard. Nonetheless, Hubert was passionate about producing wine, and although he also practiced law concurrently for almost 50 years in Dijon, he helped to put the domaine on the map and in the top echelon of Burgundy estates.

When Hubert took over in the late 1940’s, more than 90% of the wine in Burgundy was sold to négociants. But he was committed to estate-bottling, and pushed for the highest level of quality and purity. The de Montille style of the “Hubert era” was one of classic, structured wines that were built to age. Although he passed away in 2014 at the age of 84, many of the great wines he made during his career continued to drink magnificently, having aged out of their youthful firmness to blossom into the stuff of legends…gorgeous, mature, terroir-driven Burgundies.

Hubert’s son, Etienne, joined the domaine in 1983 and immediately displayed the passion and dedication he had learned from his father. By 1995, he was officially co-managing alongside his father but in charge of most of the day-to-day decisions. Like Hubert, he also had another career during this time, working in investment banking until dedicating himself full time to the domaine in 2001. One of Etienne’s first decisions was to convert the estate to organic farming, starting in 1995. Ten years later, in 2005, they began implementing biodynamic techniques as well, and soon thereafter sought official organic certification, which they earned in 2012. Today, they continue to farm their entire vineyard holdings biodynamically, and like many top vignerons in the region, are committed to the long-term health of their soils and vines. In Etienne's words, "biodynamic farming requires us to be aware of the life cycle of the plants and to embrace energies we cannot explain. We employ biodynamic techniques as a way to support and stimulate the vines, but organic farming is the foundation of what we do."

Saint-Aubin's celebrated En Remilly vineyard is located just behind Le Montrachet, mid-slope at the exit of the valley -- a truly privileged positioning. The meager, rocky soils are farmed by the Montille family with certified organic and practicing biodynamic methods. Fermented in demi-muids. Regarding sulfur, whites have the following: 75-100 mg/l total SO2, 30-35 mg/l free SO2 (we are going to assume this is low to very low). Aged one year in demi-muids, then aged another 5 months in stainless steel. Only 8000 bottles produced.

A truly electric wine that balances the power and generosity that comes from the south-facing exposition, with a salty minerality that is attributed to the shallow, rocky soils. Some call St. Aubin 'poor man's Puligny-Montrachet' but in the hands of the Montille family, this is an exceptional white in its own right.