Fabien Duveau Saumur Champigny Les Gaignés 2023

Fabien Duveau is a young winemaker and represents the eighth generation of his family estate, that he became responsible for in 2008, after taking it over from his father. The winery is in Chacé, about three miles southeast of Saumur, on the left bank of the Loire. Chacé is one of the most renowned areas of the region for Saumur-Champigny because of the deep layer of tuffeau and the layers of clay and sandstone over it. Duveau’s cellar and vineyards neighbor the local star, Clos Rougeard.

The vineyards are composed of 20 hectares split among approximately 40 parcels, planted with Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc that Fabien converted to organic and biodynamic viticulture (certified by Demeter in 2023) when he came back to the family estate. Duveau and his team practice regenerative agriculture. They put hives in their vineyards, planted shrubs, have sheep for eco-pasturing, plant beans, and allow plants to grow near the vines, like wild strawberries. (fabienduveau-vigneron.fr) Having so many distinct parcels allows Fabien to vinify and age them by different terroirs and configuration of the soils and each wine is labeled by parcel.

Fabien ages his wines in a stunning cellar from the 14th century, where the constant chill and humidity create the perfect environment to store wines. He uses concrete tanks for the vinification working with spontaneous fermentations while the aging is done in neutral oak to keep the purity of the fruit and the terroir.   

Duveau's "Les Gaignés" comes from a chalky soil with silt and sand deposits. It's a great intro to Duveau's style - with pure fruit and a hint of pepper. Made entirely in cement tanks to preserve the freshness of the wine.

Loire Valley reds such as this one are served in France in the spring and summer for outdoor grilling dinners, sunny luncheons, or simply with cheeses and charcuterie. In the winter months, roasted chicken and beef stews will often accompany a red like this.

"In these subterranean cellars from the 14th century, Fabien Duveau is the 8th generation heading this 15 hectare family winery in Chacé. Poyeux and Bourg are at the top of the list with wines that are certified organic, structured and elegant, marked by beautiful lingering flavors. (His Saumur wines) are among the best in the appellation. This is one of the revelations of the year."  - Bettane & Desseauve 2024