Château Cantenac Brown Margaux 2019

Now under new ownership, but with the same winemaking team, this estate has produced a wine with great concentration. The tannins are generous in feel, showing a dense, dry core that sits well with the powerful black currant fruits. It has great long-term potential. 95-97 Barrel Sample

Winemaker José Sanfins is doing sterling work at this fast-improving Margaux estate. The 2019 Cantenac Brown represents around half the crop, picked 18 September to 9 October and then matured in 60% new oak. It has a slightly more extravagant bouquet than its peers, more expressive with vivacious blackberry, raspberry and cranberry fruit mingling with cedar and cigar humidor scents. The palate is very cohesive with sappy red fruit, beautifully judged acidity and a harmonious, fulfilling dark chocolate-tinged finish that lingers wonderfully. What an exquisite, well-crafted Margaux with oodles and oodles of charm. 94-96

Here is a very pretty barrel sample with crushed berries, walnuts and hints of chocolate and smoke. It’s full-bodied and layered with lightly chewy tannins and a rich finish. Muscular for the vintage. 93-94

The 2019 Cantenac Brown is a brilliant wine from José Sanfins and his team. Unwinding in the glass with deep aromas of wild berries, licorice, loamy soil, burning embers and violets, it's medium to full-bodied, seamless and layered, with terrific concentration, beautifully refined tannins and a seamless, elegant profile. Given its quality, this remains somewhat under the radar and is well worth a special effort to seek out.

A ton of tightly packed black fruits are right there on the attack of this wine, along with enticing aromatic power. It's a well-muscled Cantenac Brown with a sleek, carefully controlled tannic hold alongside liquorice and black chocolate notes - good stuff. New owner at this property as of 2019, Tristan Le Lous. 60% new oak, with 51% of overall production in the first wine.

The 2019 Château Cantenac Brown is terrific, surpassing the 2018. Lots of ripe black and blue fruits as well as scorched earth, leather, and crushed stone notes define the bouquet, and it's a rich, medium to full-bodied, juicy wine that has the fresher, lively style of the vintage yet still brings beautiful fruit. It doesn't have the tannin quality of the top wines in the appellation, but as I wrote after tasting it from barrel, it's one sexy Margaux. Give it just a few years and enjoy over the following 20 years.

Shows the hallmarks of the vintage, with steeped plum, blackberry and boysenberry fruit paste flavors that are broad and lush, while singed wood, violet and anise notes filter in. Features underlying freshness, with finely beaded acidity providing support. A step ahead. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Drink now through 2035. 9,583 cases made.