Thibault Liger-Belair Nuits Saint Georges Les Saint Georges 2017

The 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 1er Cru includes 40% whole cluster fruit, the most that Thibaut has used thus far. Matured in 60% new oak, it has a refined bouquet of pure black cherries, black currant, briar and crushed granite aromas, almost chalky in style. The palate is medium-bodied with immediate mineralité that alerts the senses. This is not a subtle Les Saint-Georges; it races out of the blocks with vivacious, almost flint-infused dark berry fruit and touches of bergamot and chai tea toward the sustained finish. Excellent. 92-94

This is rich, sweet and just a little farmyardy but with oodles of perfume, texture and plush, smooth, palate-coating fruit. It's a Les St-Georges to drink and enjoy comparatively young. There's some tannin and acidity here, but it's the sweet berry fruit that predominates.

Here there is no reductive funk to the restrained and cool aromas of red berries, earth, soft floral and a suggestion of the sauvage. There is excellent punch to the delicious and intensely mineral-inflected middle weight plus flavors that culminate in a tautly muscular yet reasonably refined finish that is austere, serious and built to age. *Outstanding* 91-93