Vincent Girardin Chevalier Montrachet 2017

(Girardin has just two 2015 barrels of this juice): Bright medium yellow. Pungent yet discreet scents of citrus fruits, mint, white flowers and crushed rock. A pure, sappy expression of terroir; still very tightly wound and more about minerality than fruit but already demonstrates superb clarity and inner-mouth perfume and energy. This very uncompromising young Chevalier-Montrachet finishes dry and classic, with a mounting crushed-stone character. Already showing considerable finesse, this wine should be outstanding.

The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru wafts from the glass with scents of citrus oil, toasted nuts, white flowers and nutmeg. Full-bodied, multidimensional and layered, this is chiseled and racy, finer-boned than the Bâtard and just as penetrating, though seemingly just a touch less deep and profound. That's splitting hairs, as both are playing at a very high level this year.