Massolino Barolo Margheria 2016

Demonstrating Serralunga's more elegant side thanks to soils that have higher than usual amounts of sand for the village, this offers enticing scents of red berry, iris, botanical herb and dark spice. Vibrant, structured and loaded with finesse, the linear palate offers crushed raspberry, dark cherry and star anise framed in taut, refined tannins. It's vibrant and balanced, with bright acidity. Drink 2026–2041.

The Massolino 2016 Barolo Margheria offers a plump and ripe fruit profile with aromas of dark cherry blackberry and plum. Beyond that powerful primary bouquet are layers of spice tobacco and crushed stone. Serralunga d'Alba often delivers ferrous mineral aromas that resemble iron ore and rusty nail and those appear here too in a supporting role. The Margheria site shapes structured wines that are slightly more accessible if you consider neighboring sites in Serralunga d'Alba but it is also built for the long term should you decide to wait. The annual production of 8000 bottles will hit the market in September 2020. There are many great things to write about Massolino a family winery based in Serralunga d'Alba. As I reflect on these wines I am struck by the harmony and perfection of the overall portfolio: the clear identity of each product and its placement within the Massolino quality pyramid and the crescendo of wines that culminates with a truly memorable single-vineyard Baroli and the top-shelf Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda. The portfolio has a few unexpected surprises too such as a very elegant Moscato d'Asti and a cheerful Riesling. I just learned of a new wine to join the family. Starting with the 2019 vintage Massolino will introduce a Barbaresco with a blend of fruit from three sites: Albesani Serraboella and Starderi in Treiso. A total of four hectares of vines are now under lease and Massolino set up a small winery in Alba for processing this fruit. We will see this new wine in 2022.

The 2016 Barolo Margheria is super-refined and elegant but it is also classically austere as so many top wines are in this vintage. Bright red berry fruit wild flowers mint blood orange rose petal and cinnamon all grace this very pretty nuanced Barolo. The Margheria is medium in body and despite its austerity it is also very pretty not to mention incredibly inviting. It will be even better in another few years once the tannins soften. Readers will have to be patient.