Domaine Meo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée Au Cros Parantoux 2016
Made from 60+ year old vines, the premier cru Cros Parantoux is one of Méo-Camuzet's most rare and prized wines, as, if not even more sought-after than his precious grand cru's. An opulent, structured wine, both impressive and demonstrative, with mouthwatering acidity, especially when it is young, yet the first impression on the palate is still fleshy and smooth. This is a wine which gives you a feeling of generosity. It has a very high aging potential, and the wine preserves its natural freshness.
Méo-Camuzet is one of the most celebrated domaines of the Côte d'Or, located in the heart of prestigious Vosne-Romanée. The domaine boasts 14 hectares of land in some of the most spectacular appellations and crus of Burgundy. Founder Étienne Camuzet was not only a passionate vigneron, but a full-time politician, and spent most of his time in Paris, representing the Côte d'Or. By the time his daughter had inherited the estate, she found herself with no successors, so the estate was passed down to her closest relative, Jean Méo. Jean was also deeply involved in national politics-he served as a member of Charles DeGaulle's cabinet. Consequently, he, too, had to direct the domaine from afar. In the early 1980s, as many of the métayeurs were starting to retire, it became clear that the domaine needed a new direction. Jean's son, Jean-Nicolas had also spent most of his life in Paris, but had an enormous passion for winegrowing. By 1985, it was his turn to take the helm. In lieu of continuing to rent out their highly-pedigreed vineyards, he made the bold decision to slowly start reclaiming the land for the domaine's own bottlings. He called upon the resident expert, one of Burgundy's greatest winemakers of all time, Henri Jayer, for guidance. Henri had spent over forty years farming parcels from Méo-Camuzet under his own label. For three years, he mentored Jean-Nicolas during the transition and finally decided to retire in 1988. Jean-Nicolas has since directed the winemaking in the cellar and managed sales. He has put the vineyards in the capable hands of Christian Faurois, son of one of domaine's métayeurs, who has dedicated himself to these vineyards since 1973.
We have visited this illustrious estate and tasted wine with Jean-Nicolas. He is extremely serious and detail-oriented with an underlying passion for the vines and the wines which he ultimately produces. Today Domaine Méo-Camuzet bottles four astounding grands crus (Richebourg, Clos de Vougeot, Corton Clos Rognet, and Échezeaux, with two more Cortons soon on the way), ten premier crus (from the communes of Vosne-Romanée, Nuits-St-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny, and Fixin), several village wines including this Vosne-Romanee, one Bourgogne Rouge, and only one white. Jean-Nicolas aims for balance and purity of fruit, which he accomplishes with terrific success. Though delicate and fine, even in their youth, the paradoxical concentration and intensity of these wines make them ideal for long aging.
|Region||France, Burgundy, Cote de Nuits|
BurghoundAn even more complex if not quite as ripe nose is quite cool and restrained and it requires aggressive swirling to coax the beautifully layered aromas of plum, dark currant, violet and once again a lovely array of spice elements. The powerful, concentrated and palate coating medium-bodied flavors flash plenty of minerality on the hugely long and impeccably well-balanced finish. Despite the evident harmony of expression it is also abundantly clear that this is going to require a long snooze in a cool cellar before it arrives at its peak. 94-96
Wine AdvocateThe 2016 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Cros Parantoux is blessed with a bewitching and detailed bouquet with subtle floral scents: wilted rose petals littered over redcurrant and cranberry aromas, a hint of clove emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, cohesive with fine-boned and yet somehow understated with a touch of salinity and lapsang souchong on the finish. Maybe at present, a more reserved Cros Parantoux than Emmanuel Rouget's, yet one can already see its potential. 94-96