Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno Barolo Cannubi 2016
Francesco Borgogno established Fratelli Serio and Battista Borgogno in 1897. At the time his was the only winery on the Cannubi hill. He served as the mayor of the town of Barolo for more than 30 years, leading an informal association of growers and helping to solve problems in the vineyards and beyond. The estate has been in the family since its beginning, with fourth-generation sisters Anna and Paola Borgogno now handing the reins over to daughters Emanuela and Federica.
The rolling hillside vineyard of Cannubi, in which the Serio and Battista Borgogno winery is based, encompasses just under 15 hectares, about the same size as the Burgundy Grand Cru plot of Clos de la Roche. Among the cognoscenti, Cannubi is held in the same esteem as any Grand Cru Pinot Noir vineyard in Burgundy. Its history as a place where great wine has always been produced is evident: the oldest surviving bottle of Barolo is labeled, “Cannubi -1752.” While the history is important, it is the terroir, and resulting style that separates Cannubi from Barolo’s other vineyards. The crus of Serralunga and Monforte are known for their power, and to a certain extent, the Barolo DOCG as a whole enjoys the same reputation. The majesty of Cannubi lies in its lifted, floral aromatics with a palate characterized by elegance and approachable structure. As with all great wine, its requisite age-worthiness is undeniable, but unlike many Baroli, Cannubi brings uncommon pleasure in youth.
|Region||Italy, Piedmont, Barolo|
|Brand||Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno|
Wine EnthusiastEditors' Choice. Rose-petal, woodland-berry, clove and wild herb aromas are front and center on this fragrant red along with a whiff of camphor. From the heart of this legendary vineyard area, the focused, elegantly structured palate features pomegranate, crushed raspberry, star anise and a hint of cinnamon framed in tightly knit fine-grained tannins. Bright acidity keeps it balanced and lends enough energy for long cellaring. Drink 2024-2046.
Wine AdvocateWhen compared to the other wines in this flight from Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno, the 2016 Barolo Cannubi is by far the most defined, erect and vertical. It offers more energy and tension within, thanks to sharp tones of dark cherry, tilled earth and rusty nail. I also found aromas specific to this wine that remind me of clove or toasted cardamom seed. It all works out nicely. This wine will appeal to those who enjoy a slightly darker and more robust side of the Cannubi cru, a vineyard awash in soft, golden sunlight. Some 12,000 bottles were filled in January. This is one of the best values you can get from Cannubi.
VinousThe 2016 Barolo Cannubi from Serio & Battista Borgogno is a beguiling old-school Barolo. Orange peel, mint, rose petal, sweet red cherry, licorice and kirsch are some of the notes that are laced together. Deceptive in its mid-weight structure, the 2016 offers plenty of Cannubi sensuality. Bright acids and veins of tannin extend into the finish, adding a good bit of youthful austerity to the mix. This is such a pretty and intriguing wine.