Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot 2016
The talented Pierre Yves Colin began his own domaine in 2005 after making wine for his father at Domaine Marc Colin for many years. First, he started as a micro-négociant, focusing on tiny quantities of the finest wines that he could buy. Now he has grown his domaine with the help of family holdings to 70% plots that he owns and 30% grapes he purchases. His holdings are mostly in Chassagne-Montrachet (where the domaine is located) but he also produces multiple bottlings of Meursault, St. Aubin, and Puligny-Montrachet. Earning a star reputation among the younger generation in Burgundy, his choice to use larger demi-muid barrels and eschew the use of battonnage made waves in the appellation. These techniques (or lack there of) make each one of his bottlings a clear expression of its terroir and a study in mineral-driven Chardonnay. Tasting Colin-Morey wines is truly a special experience. We are allocated precious bottles of each wine in each vintage.
At his new, larger facility outside of Chassagne-Montrachet, Pierre-Yves is able to ferment the wines from his 25 acres of vineyards plus the fruit that he buys and he has room for two vintages to be in barrel simultaneously. This is a more logical and relaxed way for him, since he no longer needs to rack or bottle too early, to make room for the next harvest. He likes a long élevage for the wines. Everything is done by gravity and the wines are moved by air pressure rather than pump. There is no more bâtonnage to retain freshness in the wines. He has also moved to fermenting and aging entirely in 350-liter oak barrels.
"The fermentations and malolactic are slower, we keep more CO2, more freshness, more life in the wines," he said, explaining that while the volume is 1.5 times greater than a 228-liter pièce, there is only 1.1 times the surface area. That allows him to use more new oak, between 30 to 50 percent, while keeping more energy and less sweetness in the wines during the maturation in barrel.
|Region||France, Burgundy, Chassagne-Montrachet|
BurghoundA pungent array of oak, resin and petrol aromas lead to unusually sleek middle weight flavors in the context of what is typical for Morgeot and this sense of refinement also characterizes the nicely detailed and lingering finale. This should drink well young but reward mid-term cellaring as well. 90-92