This Barolo from a small quality-driven estate, famous for their Cannubi bottling, is made of 100% Nebbiolo from vineyards in Novello
. The vines are planted 350 meters above sea level with grey marl soils, and maceration takes 8-10 days in large oak casks, with frequent replacement and turning before aging three years in traditional large casks, plus 6 months in bottle.
The rolling hillside vineyard of Cannubi, in which the Serio and Battista Borgogno winery is based, encompasses just under 15 hectares, about the same size as the prestigious Burgundy plot of Clos de la Roche (which will easily set you back $300 per bottle). Among the cognoscenti, Cannubi is held in the same esteem as any Grand Cru Pinot Noir vineyard in Burgundy. It’s history as a place where great wine has always been produced is evident: the oldest surviving bottle of Barolo is labeled, “Cannubi -1752.”
While the history is important, it is the terroir, and resulting style that separates Cannubi from Barolo’s other vineyards. The crus of Serralunga and Monforte are known for their power, and to a certain extent, the Barolo DOCG as a whole enjoys the same reputation. The majesty of Cannubi lies in its lifted, floral aromatics with a palate characterized by elegance and approachable structure. As with all great wine, its requisite age-worthiness is undeniable, but unlike many Baroli, Cannubi brings uncommon pleasure in youth.
Francesco Borgogno established Fratelli Serio and Battista Borgogno in 1897. At the time his was the only winery on the Cannubi hill. He served as the mayor of the town of Barolo for more than 30 years, leading an informal association of growers and helping to solve problems in the vineyards and beyond. The estate has been in the family since its beginning, with fourth-generation sisters Anna and Paola Borgogno now handing the reins over to daughters Emanuela and Federica.
'Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno is one of the most historic estates in Piedmont, with a number of core holdings in and around Cannubi. It’s been a number of years since I last tasted the wines, but I was quite taken with the two 2016 Barolos… Borgogno is an estate to watch.'–Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Wine EnthusiastPressed rose, camphor, woodland berry, dark spice and new leather are just some of the aromas you'll find on this fragrant red. Radiant, structured and boasting finesse.
Wine AdvocateThis vintage soars high when you measure the performance of this 2016 Barolo against past editions. The wine comes into its own with dark fruit, spice, camphor ash and tilled earth. It remains mid-weight and silky, yet the personality here is slightly more robust and dark compared to many of its neighbors. I see from past notes that I often found this classic Barolo to be too ripe. That's not the case here. The 2016 vintage is balanced and tight, with a firm tannic structure. The wine was double decanted and opened a few hours before my tasting. About 6,500 bottles were made.
VinousThe 2016 Barolo shows the darker side of Nebbiolo. Black cherry, game, licorice, smoke, leather, menthol and spice all add to the wine's virile feel, an impression that is reinforced by firm, sinewy tannins that give the wine its personality. The 2016 is a bit rough around the edges, but it has plenty of personality. The 2016 can be enjoyed now, with a few hours of aeration, which will smooth out some of the wine's youthful angularity.