Podere Poggio Scalette Il Carbonaione 2016
We had the great privilege of welcoming winemaker Vittorio Fiore to the Bottle Shop for one of our VIP tasting events some years ago... we had fallen in love with his 100% old vine Sangiovese, Il Carbonaione, from his winery Poggio Scalette in Alta Valle delle Greve. Poggio Scalette takes its name from the landscape, which is characterized by dry, stone walls supporting terraces on which the vineyards and olive groves are planted. From a distance the impression is of a series of stairs climbing the slopes of Greve. After the death of its previous owner, Poggio Scalette remained abandoned for years until Vittorio Fiore, one of Italy’s most famed winemakers, discovered the property in 1991 with his wife, Adriana. In 1996, 42 additional acres of land became available, enabling them to expand. It was discovered that the plot of land known as Il Carbonaione was the first area to be replanted after World War I (1914-1918), which means these vines, more than 90 years old, are a rare example of the original clone of the famous Sangiovese di Lamole variety in the Chianti Classico area.
The slopes of the Greve Valley are without question some of Italy’s most ideal locations for vineyards and olive groves. The combination of exposure and soil composition contributes to the excellent quality of the wines and the extra virgin olive oils of the area. Named for the river that passes through as it travels from a medieval hilltop town, this area happens to be one of the most important historical centers of the Chianti Classico region. Il Carbonaione, Poggio Scalette’s signature wine, is the culmination of knowledge and experience and therefore an important message of quality. The vineyard was planted in 1928, it is 13 acres in size, with soils of stony, sandy silty-loam. The yields are a mere 2 tons per acre. Aged 14 months in new and one year barrels, 90% French and 10% American. Pair with grilled lamb chops, sugo all'amatriciana sauces, Bistecca alla Fiorentina, and terrine de foie gras.
Vittorio Fiore dedicates this wine to Tuscany and to Sangiovese — the region and the variety that have allowed him to fulfill his aspirations to produce superb wine. It really shows his life's work in one bottle...
|Region||Italy, Tuscany, Alta Valle della Greve|
|Brand||Podere Poggio Scalette|
James SucklingWhat a crazy nose of pure fruit, featuring pressed violets, lavender, dark plums, cherry compote, orange rind, lemon zest, boysenberries, vanilla, Thai basil and bay leaf. The fruit is so overt and generous, yet presented in an unimaginably sleek way, the firm tannins keeping it compact and silky throughout, while the tangy acidity cuts right through to the long, structured finish.
Wine AdvocateVittorio Fiore's 2016 Il Carbonaione is a robust expression of Sangiovese from a classic vintage. The wine is carefully balanced but also powerful at the same time, with bright cherry and wild berry aromas followed by tilled earth and garden herb. You also get lighter tones of licorice and tar at the back. Despite the opulence and generosity of the bouquet, the wine ultimately proves lean and elegantly streamlined in terms of mouthfeel.
Jeb DunnuckI followed the 2016 Il Carbonaione for three days and it only got better with air, its fruit gaining depth and richness, and its acidity becoming more integrated. However, it always offered ample upfront charm and grace as well as loads of pleasure. Possessing ripe cherries, strawberries, and even a hint of cassis in its fruit, it has lovely background notes of licorice, toasted spices, and blood orange. Medium-bodied and silky on the palate, it has a supple, seamless texture, nicely integrated acidity, and sweet tannins, all of which are beautifully balanced by the wines upfront fruit. This is an elegant yet also powerful expression of Sangiovese that has wonder depth and purity of fruit.
Wine SpectatorA fruity style, boasting cherry and raspberry flavors and a light touch of oak spice. Leather, earth, iron and sanguine elements creep in as this gains air. Firms up, ending with a dusty finish. Sangiovese. Best from 2021 through 2033. 2,200 cases made, 700 cases imported.