Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 2014
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The Cantina Bartolo Mascarello is one of the legendary and historic producers of the Barolo appellation. The winery has stood as a beacon of staunch Barolo traditionalism since its official inception in 1918. The roots of the estate go back further, to the 19th century when the Mascarello family produced grapes which they sold to large wine producing houses in the nearby township of Bra. At around the turn of the century, though, a dozen or so producers including Bartolomeo Mascarello – Bartolo’s grandfather - established a much smaller entity, called the ‘Barolo Co-operative Winery’, and Bartolomeo became the cellar master there. Eventually, the Co-Operative closed, and Bartolo’s father, Giulio, just back from fighting in World War I, decided to take the plunge and produce some wine under his own label, a true rarity for that era. Although some of the wine was sold as actual bottles, much of the production was sold in demi-johns to restaurants and other consumers who undertook the bottling of the wine on their own.
Over time, the estate acquired small parcels of choice vineyards in the communes of Barolo and La Morra. The winery was later passed onto Giulio’s son, Bartolo, in the 1960’s where they worked in tandem until Giulio’s death in 1981. Over that period, the winery began to gain more prominence. When Bartolo died in 2005, the baton was passed then to his only child, Maria Teresa. Today, Maria Teresa produces Barolo along with tiny amounts of Dolcetto, Barbera, Freisa and Langhe Nebiolo, and routinely sells out of each wine quickly. The wines are spectacular and singular expressions of Traditional Nebbiolo. Classic in all senses, structurally, aromatically, and in their long cellaring capacity. In recent years, under the meticulous hand of Maria Teresa, some say the wines have gained another level of finesse and balance.
Wine EnthusiastThis lovely radiant Barolo is another showstopper despite the difficulties of the cool wet vintage. It's incredibly elegant, with alluring scents of perfumed blue flower, rose petal, woodland berry and a whiff of menthol. The focused graceful palate boasts fantastic tension, showing wild strawberry, crushed raspberry, star anise and cinnamon framed in taut polished tannins and vibrant acidity. It's already enjoyable but will also offer good mid-term aging. Drink through 2034.
Wine AdvocateHere is another very successful expression from one of the appellation's legendary estates at the heart of Barolo. The 2014 Barolo is light and delicate in appearance with a delightful bouquet of wild rose, forest berry and blue fruit. Violets and lavender give the bouquet a pretty sense of lift and intensity that reminds you of the cool climate and long growing season that characterizes this vintage. This wine also offers evident freshness with bright berry flavors and a subtle feeling of crisp crunchiness. The tannins are superbly integrated within the silky and streamlined body of this elegant Barolo. This wine will surely offer exciting bottle evolution.