Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay Vendanges Sélectionnées 2015
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This Lafarge cuvée, Vendanges Sélectionnées, is made only in good years when yields are high enough in Volnay to warrant putting aside grapes from the older vines. The esteemed Domaine Michel Lafarge is located in the village of Volnay, in the Côte de Beaune of Burgundy . The size of the estate is 10 ha (24.71 acres) planted to mostly Pinot Noir with very small amounts of Chardonnay, Gamay and Aligoté. The viticulture is certified organic (Ecocert) and biodynamic (Demeter, since 2000) and the red wines are made with 100% de-stemmed grapes, indigenous yeasts, maximum 25% new oak, reds unfiltered, whites fined and/or filtered if necessary.
The Volnay is made from 1.25 ha (3.09 acre) in the village, with vines averaging 50 years, multiple parcels in the middle of Volnay that border premier Crus (including Mitans), all southeast-facing, with clay-limestone soil. The vinification: 2 weeks in tank, indigenous yeasts, 18 months aging in oak barrel (7% new), one racking.
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Wine AdvocateThe 2015 Volnay "Vendanges Sélectionées" comes from terroir that Frédéric deems not premier cru, but can create what he sees as a "vin de garde"—a wine for ageing. The nose is actually more backward than the village cru at the moment and demanded quite a bit of coaxing from the glass. The palate is where the difference lies, as there is a touch more tension and energy here, especially on the tart red cherry and strawberry finish that lingers long in the mouth. It needs to knit together by the time of bottling, but there is certainly substance and density to this Volnay that should achieve its raison d'être. 90-92