Domaine Sylvain Cathiard Chambolle Musigny Les Clos de L'Orme 2015
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This small domaine comprised of under 14 acres is run by winemaker Sebastien Cathiard, son of Sylvain Cathiard, doing both the vineyard work and vinification. Cathiard and his wife continue to advise their son when needed. The original family domaine was established by Sylvain's grandfather in the 1930s and then maintained by Sylvain's father from 1969 until 1985, when Sylvain became involved. The following year, Sylvain set up his own domaine with parcels of vines rented from his father and other vignerons, before taking on his father's original vineyards. Based in Vosne, his vineyards span Vosne-Romanee, Nuits-St.-Georges and Chambolle-Musigny, and a tiny parcel in Romanee-St.-Vivant. All of the vineyard work is done meticulously by hand by the family, and they follow a hands-off, non-interventionist approach to winemaking. This Chambolle is made from vines planted 85% in 1935 and 15% planted in 1992. The farming here is organic, but they call themselves lutte raisonnée swhich we deem sustainable on our site. The grapes are 100% de-stemmed, the juice spends 20-30 days in tank, indigenous yeasts are used, and the wine is aged for 15-18 months in barrel (50% new), unfined, unfiltered.
Wine AdvocateThe 2015 Chambolle-Musigny Clos de l'Orme, raised in 50% new oak, has a slightly more backward bouquet than the Nuits Saint Georges Villages, even though the malolactic finished a little earlier. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, slightly grainy tannin. There is a slight reduction here, but it dissipates and there is wonderful freshness and precision here. Superb, especially for a "mere" village cru.