Sigalas Santorini 2017
Wine AdvocateThe 2017 Santorini Assyrtiko, the flagship 100% Assyrtiko (which I have often called in the past either Assyrtiko or Santorini, as both fit) is unoaked and comes in at 14.5% alcohol. Maybe it was just due to my tasting this next to some of the brilliant 2016s this issue, but this seemed rather understated by comparison and a bit off of its normal brilliance. Then, I went back and did what I find is important to do when tasting quality young Assyrtiko—taste it again the next day. Sometimes, you might need two days. Or three. Decanting helps, too—a simple taste is not always revealing. If I was somewhat unimpressed with this originally, on the second day it was suddenly interesting, even exciting. "Understated" is the last word to use. It exploded in the glass. Showing fine freshness despite its size, it is simply gripping on the finish, filled with energy and very tense. It is also very concentrated. The wine doesn't seem thick exactly, but it is actually a little unctuous as it sits on the palate, showing how ripe and rich the fruit is. It fills the mouth. For all that, it seems to keep its balance. As good as this is, it left me wondering where it goes and how it will develop. Will it stay in balance? Become more expressive? With another three years in the cellar, it might show a lot like the 2016 Imerovigli Village this issue or maybe the Megalochori Village, but let's be a little conservative right now. I still have a couple of questions it has not answered.