Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne Montrachet Abbaye de Morgeot 2017
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The talented Pierre Yves Colin began his own domaine in 2005 after making wine for his father at Domaine Marc Colin for many years. First, he started as a micro-négociant, focusing on tiny quantities of the finest wines that he could buy. Now he has grown his domaine with the help of family holdings to 70% plots that he owns and 30% grapes he purchases. His holdings are mostly in Chassagne-Montrachet (where the domaine is located) but he also produces multiple bottlings of Meursault, St. Aubin, and Puligny-Montrachet. Earning a star reputation among the younger generation in Burgundy, his choice to use larger demi-muid barrels and eschew the use of battonnage made waves in the appellation. These techniques (or lack there of) make each one of his bottlings a clear expression of its terroir and a study in mineral-driven Chardonnay. Tasting Colin-Morey wines is truly a special experience. We are allocated precious bottles of each wine in each vintage.
As reported by Wine Spectator: 'Colin-Morey is very pleased with the 2015 vintage, comparing it to 2009 but with lower yields and more concentration. "In the beginning,  was ripe and rich, but during the élevage it gained freshness."
It's certainly a fine range of whites.' At his new, larger facility outside of Chassagne-Montrachet, Pierre-Yves is able to ferment the wines from his 25 acres of vineyards plus the fruit that he buys and he has room for two vintages to be in barrel simultaneously. This is a more logical and relaxed way for him, since he no longer needs to rack or bottle too early, to make room for the next harvest. He likes a long élevage for the wines. Everything is done by gravity and the wines are moved by air pressure rather than pump. There is no more bâtonnage to retain freshness in the wines. He has also moved to fermenting and aging entirely in 350-liter oak barrels.
"The fermentations and malolactic are slower, we keep more CO2, more freshness, more life in the wines," he said, explaining that while the volume is 1.5 times greater than a 228-liter pièce, there is only 1.1 times the surface area. That allows him to use more new oak, between 30 to 50 percent, while keeping more energy and less sweetness in the wines during the maturation in barrel.
Wine AdvocateThe 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot is one of the highlights of the range this year, unfurling in the glass with a classy bouquet of beeswax, Anjou pear, petrol, white flowers and subtle spices. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, pure and tangy with a tight-knit, nicely concentrated core and a penetrating and saline finish.