Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2015

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Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is one of the most celebrated cru’s of the southern Rhône. The Brunier family is legendary in its own right, having been rooted to the enigmatic plateau known as La Crau for over 100 years. The wines of Vieux Télégraphe evoke the concept of terroir in its purest form: they reflect their dramatic climate, the rough terrain that defines the soil, their full sun exposure at a higher altitude, the typicity of the varietals with an emphasis on Grenache, and the influence of their caretakers, the Brunier family. For many, La Crau is Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s grandest cru.

The Bruniers’ story begins in 1898 with Hippolyte Brunier. A modest farmer who lived off the land, Hippolyte kept less than a hectare of vines to make his own wines. His small vineyard was at one of the highest points in between Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Bédarrides, a stony plateau called La Crau. The elevation of this terrain had prompted the construction of a communication tower in the late 18th century to transmit telegraph messages between Marseille and Paris. Otherwise, the allure of this barren landscape is not immediately discernable—there is nothing but galets roulés, or rounded stones, as far as the eye can see. Up so high, the vineyards are exposed to all kinds of elements—rain, hail, scorching sunshine, and especially the unruly Mistral. This was unwelcome terrain where only the toughest vigneron dare plant, although the notorious Mistral works wonderfully to prevent rot.

However difficult to farm, Hippolyte saw how the wine from his parcel pleased others, and he began bottling more, gradually increasing his vineyard holdings to sixteen hectares. His sons helped work the farm, although most of the grapes were being sold off as premium fruit to négociants. The Bruniers weathered many storms—not the least of which was the ravaging of their vineyards by phylloxera. Hippolyte’s grandson, Henri, eventually joined the family business, and with him came great changes: replanting the vineyards, the construction of a new winery, bringing temperature control into the winery to protect the wines during fermentation, and most importantly, launching the Domaine’s first bottlings under the Vieux Télégraphe label. Henri retired in 1988 and left the Domaine in the hands of his two sons, Daniel and Frédéric. The Brunier brothers have significantly expanded the family’s holdings on La Crau to seventy hectares, and have boldly expanded their winemaking ventures into new territory.

The vineyards are sustainably farmed , and all fruit is hand-harvested. The Brunier brothers perform two rigorous sortings of the grapes following the harvest and grapes are partially de-stemmed. Grapes are pressed gently by pneumatic press amd red wines are aged in 50-60 hl foudres. The blend for the red is typically 65% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah, 5% Cinsault, Clairette, etc. from vines aged 20 to 60 years. The complex soils have alluvial deposits, limestone, silica, and molasse (red clay) with galets roulés. Grapes are sourced from La Crau, the lieu-dit that is known for the galet roulés, or rounded stones, that cover the vineyard as far as the eye can see. The wine rests in cement tank for 10 months, then ages for another 12 months in foudres, Bottled unfiltered, after 22 months of aging.

Category	Red Wine
Varietals	Grenache Syrah Clairette Mourvédre Cinsault
Region	France, Rhone, Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Brand	Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe

js96

James SucklingA wine with playful, attractive character. An array of red, blue and purple fruits. Gently spicy, chalky and fragrant, it has a very supple, fleshy and layered palate with a web of fine, smooth and supple tannins. Extremely elegant and composed. A long draw on the finish. Great depth and drive. This will live super long. Try after 2020.

September 1, 2017

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Wine SpectatorThis has a lovely, perfumy mix of savory, mint, tobacco, blood orange, cherry and bergamot notes all mixed together, carried by silky but ample structure before ending with a long, mineral- and shiso leaf—infused finish. Finely beaded acidity lets everything hang wonderfully. This should expand and cruise in the cellar. Best from 2020 through 2035.

James Molesworth

wa94

Wine AdvocateThe 2015 Châteauneuf du Pape is a classic wine from this team that shows the elegance and purity that’s the hallmark of the estate. Crushed flowers, lots of salty minerality, black raspberries and spice flow to a medium to full-bodied, layered Châteauneuf du Pape that needs 4-5 years of cellaring and will drink nicely over the following 10-15 years. 92-94

Jeb Dunnuck, October 28, 2016

VinousBrilliant ruby-red. A fragrant nose evokes ripe red and dark berries, musky flowers, licorice and white pepper, and a smoky mineral overtone adds vivacity. Juicy and concentrated in the mouth, offering gently sweet cherry, cassis and floral pastille flavors that spread out steadily on the back half. Closes chewy, sweet and very long, with building tannins adding shape and grip. I really like the blend of structure and fruit here. 92-94

Josh Raynolds, May 1, 2017

wa 91 Wine Advocate	ws 91 Wine Spectator	st 91 International Wine Cellar	we 91 Wine Enthusiast	js 91 James Suckling	bs 91 Bottle Shop	w&s 91 Wine & Spirits
bh 91 Burghound	wj 91 Wine Journal	wsk 91 Whiskey Advocate	agv 91 Vinous	d 91 Decanter	tp 91 The Tasting Panel	jd 91 Jeb Dunnuck

Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2015

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