Disznoko Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2008 500ml
Disznókő is located at the south-west entrance of the Tokaj region of Hu Tokaj is thought to be the first vineyard region in the world to have adopted a classification system and, incredibly, the entire Disznókő estate was classified as a first growth property in 1772 at the time of the initial classification by royal decree. The estate’s vineyards today are still wholly classified as first growth.
The Disznókő estate is essentially a hill of volcanic clay soil with perlite pebbles: at the top of the hill is the boar-shaped rock from which the estate takes its name, and the vineyards are arranged down the southern slope, with the winery at the bottom of the slopes. The vineyard is protected by the cold northern winds by the Zemplén hills right behind it, and draws light and heat from its southerly exposure.
In 1992, shortly after the fall of communism in Hungary, the estate was acquired by new owners and a long series of improvements initiated: the vineyards were rehabilitated and replanted, old buildings were refurbished, and new winemaking facilities were constructed. The new winery pays homage to the nearby old winery, and inside the new winery it quickly becomes apparent how Disznókő has, above any other estate in the region, restored Tokaji’s reputation to the days it was considered “the wine of kings and king of wines” (Louis XIV).
“A five puttonyos Tokaji aszu from a good producer like Disznókő can be a thrilling balancing act of sweetness and refreshment.” The New York Times
“For the aszú wines, Disznókő's style is slightly drier, with a little higher alcohol, than the sweet wines from many other Tokaji estates. This profile gives the Disznókő Tokaji more power, but elegance too, as the high acidity typical of the wines has less residual sugar to buffer it. The 5 puttonyos comes close to Sauternes in style, yet has the distinct orange peel, apricot and mineral flavors typical of Tokaji.” Wine Spectator
Made from 60% Furmint, 30% Harslevelu and 10% Zeta, the aszú grapes (shriveled grapes affected by noble rot and shriveled on the vine) are collected manually one by one over the course of several vineyard passes in a total of 5 wooden hods of 55 pounds and poured into a vat of 136 liters of must wine, according to the method established in the 17th century. After a maceration of several hours, the “Aszú dough” obtained is filtered. The collected liquid is then racked into barrels where it ferments slowly before being aged 2 years in oak barrels.
Wine AdvocateTasted at the Disznóko vertical in London, the 2008 Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos is a blend of 70% Furmint, 20% Zéta and 10% Hárslevelu, the maceration mostly with finished wine. This has an exceptional bouquet: Satsuma and mandarin, quince and marmalade, wonderful mineralite and tension. The palate is very well balanced with mandarin, lime, orange rind and a touch of quince. This is edgy, a more unpredictable yet compelling Tokaji from Disznoko with a very long and sustained finish. This comes highly recommended—an outstanding 5 Puttonyos. Tasted September 2016.