Bevan Sugarloaf Mountain Proprietary Red 2014
Robert Parker is a huge fan of Bevan. He writes: 'As I wrote last year, Russell Bevan and his partner, Victoria de Cresenzo, are turning out truly mind-blowing, big, rich, majestic wines. Bevan Cellars has hit the bull’s eye with a bevy of incredible efforts that showcases fabulous vineyard sources. Many of these have not been exploited by others. A warning though – these are super-rich, dense, powerful, massive wines. While the tannins are elevated, they are silky and well-integrated, and the wines are neither heavy nor overbearing. Nor is Bevan afraid of alcohol, but he never goes over-the-top.'
Robert Parker raves: 'In many respects, the impressively talented visionary Russell Bevan produces wines very much in his own bigger-than-life, boisterous image. With his serious insider knowledge, which gives him access to some great sources that other producers somehow have missed, he seems to magically transform his wines into personality-filled, savory, intensely flavored efforts, many of them truly world-class in quality. He’s been on a fabulous roll for the last five or six years, reaching his pinnacle of success, maybe even greatness, with his 2012s and 2013s. Moreover, he seems to have mastered the 2014 vintage as well.'
Wine AdvocateAnother look at perfection is the 350-case cuvée of 2014 Sugarloaf Mountain Proprietary Red. This is a Cheval Blanc-like blend of 57% Cabernet Franc and 43% Merlot aged in Gamba and Darnajou barrels. I don’t know anyone making wine from this particular rockpile in the southeastern hillsides of Napa, but Bevan has certainly found an unreal terroir to exploit. Unbelievable aromatics – going the full spectrum of red, blue and black fruits to spring flowers to earthy charcoal embers and incense – are followed by a wine of magnificent intensity, fabulous purity and full-bodied, almost unctuous, texture. Yet, the wine has the balance of a world-class ballerina. This is deep, rich, showing incredibly well already, and therefore hard to resist. It could last for 20+ years in a cold cellar, but why wait?