Massolino Barolo 2015

Editors' Choice. This opens with a lovely fragrance of rose petal, red berry and baking spice. Bright and juicy, the polished palate offers crushed raspberry, cinnamon and star anise alongside taut, refined tannins. Drink 2021-2027.

This is the bread-and-butter wine for the folks at Massolino, and great care is taken to make sure they get it right year after year. The 2015 Barolo is almost all fruit from Serralunga d'Alba (this township makes up 99% of the blend), with a tiny part from Castiglione Falletto. Fruit comes from five vineyard sites, including Briccolina, Collaretto, Broglio and Le Turne, all in Serralunga d'Alba. The tiny part of Castiglione Falletto fruit comes from the Parussi cru. The complex nature of the blend represents old-school Barolo tradition, and it works beautifully in a warm vintage such as this. (That Serralunga d'Alba's rich marlstone soil keeps the moisture of the vintage locked within.) This is a full and exuberant expression with a well-defined profile of spice, rusty nail, potting soil and truffle. Overall, this vintage is accessible, soft and delicious from the start.

Lean, yet evocative of cherry, strawberry, earth and tobacco notes, this red is tightly wound, featuring a good dose of bracing acidity, with firm, dusty tannins. Starts out better than it finishes, but remains solid. Best from 2022 through 2040. 5,400 cases made, 2,500 cases imported.